Making an Adjustable Front Sway Bar
by Nathan Dyck
No one seems to make a perfect front anti-sway bar for the 91 MR2 turbo, so I decided to make my own.
To complete this project, I used a 50 Ton Press, 10mm drill bit, acetylene torch, a welder (only if you have cracks), white primer spray paint, sand paper, and a metal file. I took the bar to a machine shop to crush the bar with the 50 ton press and do the fixit welding.
I started with the TRD bar for the MR2. According to TRD it is 38% stiffer that stock, so in order to make the bar stiffer, I drilled more holes in the arm of the bar. This effectively shortens the lever arm and increases the torsion that must be applied to bend the bar.
I drilled my holes with about 5mm of metal between them. This gives rates of about 38%, 70%, and 112% stiffer than stock. You may want to change these based on your individual setup, but these seemed like a good staring point to me.
Before crushing the bar flat, you should heat the area to be crushed. The side I didn't pre-heat very well developed some stress cracks near the edges. This was fixed by adding some weld material into the cracks.
I was able to use the stock end links on all three holes and the geometry looked good.
I used the formula below to calculate how to modify the bar
B=260mm (Length of the arm)
L=846mm (Length of the bar itself)
D= Diameter of the bar
I calculated that D=20.6 was a good value for the TRD bar by solving for D
using a K that was 38% greater than the stock K.
1125000 (D^4)
K = -------------------
L (B^2)
![]() |
This is what the bar looked like before I started. Their may be just enough room to drill a hole at 50%-60% stiffer that stock without crushing any of the bar. |
![]() |
A lot of heat and a 50 ton press flattened the bar nicely. |
![]() |
Oops, I guess I didn't heat that side long enough. I had to add some weld material to fill some small stress cracks. |
![]() |
The finished end after painting. |
![]() |
Finished bar with new mounts and bushings from the TRD kit. |